The two-egg bagel sandwich ($8) can be ordered with a variety of proteins, cheeses and bagels at Portsmouth’s Hearth Market. This one includes sausage and gouda.
The two-egg bagel sandwich ($8) can be ordered with a variety of proteins, cheeses and bagels at Portsmouth’s Hearth Market. This one includes sausage and gouda.
Billed as “Portsmouth’s Living Room” when it opened in June, Hearth Market is 15,000 square feet of luxuriant greenery, food court and lots of cozy seating nooks and crannies.
Twenty years ago, Hearth Market founder Heidi Feinstein created an organic cafe chain in Massachusetts that she eventually sold to the founder of Au Bon Pain and Panera Bread.
Her “food is life, food is love” philosophy is reflected in the decor and menu offerings at the newly constructed Brick Market property steps from Market Square.
My first visit was with a friend; we split a Forest Sausage Pizza ($17). The 12-inch pie was on a sourdough crust with roasted garlic, mushrooms, tomato sauce, mozzarella and savory sausage.
The wood-fired oven created a crust with the right combination of crisp and chewy. We polished off the pizza in no time, then settled in for a chat.
Hearth Market’s Forest Sausage Pizza ($17) arrived smoking hot from the Portsmouth food court’s wood-fired oven.
A Friday evening foray found the place hopping, with live music and plenty of people at the Elixir Bar. We were with grandkids and beelined for the quieter Provisions section and its grilled cheese sandwiches. The “Perfectly Simple” version ($9) was perfect for little kids, with thick, homemade bread and a hearty sharp cheddar.
The “Peak Experience” ($15) was a little more grown up, with alpine cheese, ham, apricot mostarda and sauteed greens on sourdough. The adults gave it a thumbs-up.
Overnight guests led to a 7 a.m. pickup of ham and cheese croissants from the cafe for an on-the-go breakfast.
“Crisp, buttery pastry with the proper amount of cheese and ham,” was the consensus.
The next breakfast visit was with girlfriends. We snagged a sofa and chairs surrounded by a jungle of plants and studied the menu on our phones.
There is a learning curve to Hearth Market.
First there’s navigating the different food areas — including a huge central venue with prepared food, a salad bar and a noodle and broth bar.
Ordering can be done via a QR code or at the counter. Our breakfast sandwiches were ordered at the bakery/cafe counter and picked up at the Hearth Center nearby.
The coffees and freshly squeezed orange juice were handed over at the cafe counter.
Diners pick up their food when it’s ready — service is quick — and bus their own tables. Stations with cutlery and napkins are nearby, as are places to leave dishes and dispose of trash and recyclables.
Two of our breakfast foursome chose the Egg Sammy with a fried egg, bacon and cheddar on toasted Portuguese sweet bread ($7).
For me it was a sesame seed bagel with two fried eggs, smoked gouda and sausage ($8).
Our more organic pal went for the Wicked Good avocado toast ($5) — sourdough covered with avocado mash, pepitas and everything bagel spice.
That led to trying an order of Japanese milk toast with goat cheese and berry compote, which the table shared.
All of the sandwiches came with greens, fresh berries and an orange slice on the side.
To finish, we split a slab of chocolate hazelnut cake ($8) and had it with a second cup of coffee.
The java ($4) came in 16-ounce pottery mugs and is a medium roast. After what everyone pronounced a delicious, hearty breakfast with plenty of protein, greens, sugar and caffeine, we were ready for the day.
Hearth Market has a “Lush Life” section that sells all the plants on display. Diners are also surrounded by “pantry goods” for sale — everything from condiments to candles.
There’s so much to look at in this garden of food that it’s worth strolling through the next time you’re in Portsmouth.
Hearth Market 60 Penhallow St., Portsmouth, 603-427-8631, hearthmarketportsmouth.com Cuisine: Food court with an organic twist. Hours: Cafe and bakery, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.; bar, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Hearth Center, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Pricing: $2.50 to $25. {related_content_uuid}52a96ec7-8a0a-45a2-9145-28fed336945e{/related_content_uuid}
