With an out-of-town relative visiting for a long weekend, we pondered where to take her to show off New Hampshire cuisine.
A retired college professor, she’s a gourmet cook who lives near a city known for its international flavors, so the prospect was a bit daunting. Portsmouth was an obvious choice, but we opted for the recently renovated eatery at the New London Inn, The Elms Restaurant and Bar.
It did not disappoint.
The Elms describes itself on its website as “a lively neighborhood restaurant rooted in classic American cooking.” Nearly everything is made in-house from locally sourced ingredients.
It was a rainy Friday night and, fortunately, we had made reservations, as every table was occupied in the main dining area, where a fire was blazing in the granite fireplace.
The hostess escorted us to a quieter ell where dark green walls and soft lighting created a cozy atmosphere.
The Professor ordered The Elms Martini ($14) — “a good standard martini,” she judged it. The carnivore (and driver) opted for the Orange Blossom Highball (tasty, but at $13, pricey for a non-alcoholic drink). I chose the Garden Gate ($13), Grainger’s vodka with flavors of watermelon, cucumber and lemon, a refreshing start to what turned out to be a memorable meal.
We’d had only a light lunch and everyone was hungry, so we quickly decided on some appetizers to share. We opted for the Deviled Eggs ($8) from the Snacks section of the menu, and from the Appetizers list, we chose Truffle Fries ($12) and Grilled Vegetables ($14).
I’m partial to soup, but as a pescatarian with celiac, it can be tough to find a meatless soup that’s not made with a roux. In addition to French onion soup, the Elms offers a “seasonal” soup, and here our waitress, Sally, had a happy surprise: “All our seasonal soups are gluten-free and vegan.” Oh, joy!
That night’s offering was a tomato-based concoction with leeks and corn that was a universal hit. Smoky and flavorful, with red pepper flakes, lots of fresh basil and dill, it was divine.
The deviled eggs were pretty standard, but the truffle fries were a standout — hot, crispy and dusted with Parmesan and herbs, served with a scrumptious aioli. The Professor was impressed that the truffle oil did not overwhelm: “The hand that dressed it dressed it lightly.”
The grilled vegetables — radishes, rainbow carrots and shishito peppers — were served with white bean hummus swimming in, and elevated by, chili oil.
Between the soup and apps, I could have gone home happy. But we soldiered on.
With just eight entrees on the menu, we were surprised that there were no specials on a Friday night. Still, the menu does offer something for vegetarian, seafood lover and meat-eater alike, including an 8-ounce burger ($22). And all but two dishes are gluten-free.
The Professor made the unorthodox choice of the Roasted Cauliflower ($24), a generous portion accompanied by fried garlic chips and two pepper-based sauces, one green from poblanos, the other an orange romesco. Both were piquant and colorful enough to perk up the bland vegetable.
Roasted cauliflower with poblano and romesco sauces at The Elms.
Even for this veggie lover, it seemed like a lot of cauliflower, but the Professor was happy with her choice.
The carnivore chose the roasted half-chicken ($30), served with maple carrots, peas, potatoes and rosemary jus. And here the chef turned a predictable dish into something special.
Maple lightly infuses the roasted half chicken at The Elms.
“Couldn’t be better,” the carnivore declared of the fall-off-the-bone chicken, the skin just the right degree of crispy. The maple lightly infused the entire dish, he said, adding just the right touch of sweetness.
I chose the pan-seared arctic char ($30), accompanied by a tomato cream sauce, navy beans, zucchini and cherry tomatoes. Served skin-side up, the fish — think salmon crossed with trout — was cooked to perfection, and the entire dish was light and savory.
We didn’t really have room for dessert, but we shared a slice of the Heath bar cheesecake, which came with shards of dark chocolate pressed into the sides. It wasn’t the best we’ve had, but it still disappeared rather quickly.
This was not an inexpensive evening — the bill came to $172 before tax and tip — but we all came away delighted.
The Elms is a spot we’ll return to — perhaps at the holidays with relatives we’re hoping to impress. Or maybe even sooner, on a cold, stormy evening when we need a little comfort and joy.
The Elms Restaurant and Bar New London Inn, 353 Main St., New London; 603-526-2791; theelmsrestaurant.com Hours: Tuesday-Saturday: dining, 5-9 p.m.; bar, 4-10 p.m. Cuisine: Imaginative take on New England classics; vegetarian and gluten-free choices available. Pricing: Snacks, $6-$10; soup and salads, $10-$14; appetizers, $4-$20; entrees, $22-$34; sides, $8-$10; dessert, $10-$11. {related_content_uuid}fdcef0d3-8b97-419a-894a-38753909cb11{/related_content_uuid}
Scores for The Elms Atmosphere: 18/20 Menu: 17/20 Food: 19/20 Value: 18/20 Service: 17/20 Total: 89/100 {related_content_uuid}70d9de99-786f-45d8-b547-9bb79d0bd032{/related_content_uuid}
